College Girl Clothing and the Gateway Modes Brand during the 1940s and 1950s

I am excited because I get to do something I am passionate about, writing about the history of clothing. Also, of course, showing off the garments and styling them while getting to play fashion model. :) 

 I wanted to do a special post on a jacket that my husband found for me at a thrift shop for an amazing price.  We were initially confused by it at first because it had somewhat 1930s styling, 1940s style details, and was a ladieswear coat on top of all of that in a masculine cut. 

(I love the bridge in the label)

The National Recovery Board Coat and Suit Industry tag only vaguely helped as this particular one can be dated anywhere from the 1930s to 1970s. 
                                            

                                                      (The National Recovery Board Label)

While I was at a bit of a loss, I turned to the Vintage Fashion Guild for help. A kind member on the message boards pointed me to this newspaper article but said it was all they could find. 

(the clipping they found for me)

This was an exciting discovery for me because I love Nancy Drew,  fashion archaeology, and the history behind labels and brands. I hadn't been able to find any other information on Gateway Modes yet, so this was hopeful. I decided to take the clue and go searching through newspaper archives. This was a difficult task because many times you have to pay expensive fees to access them, so I opted for a free trial. 

After combing through many papers, I discovered a couple of things: 

1. Gateway Modes was mostly being worn in California, but I saw a few ads for Washington and one for the East Coast as well. 

2.Gateway Modes was aimed for young, college bound women and a young audience. It was sold at department stores (even J.C. Penney but not exclusively) and was probably worn by the middle to upper middle classes. College wasn't exactly what most women did back then, so this was a niche audience it was catering to. 

                                    (Capwell's Department store advertising Gateway Modes pieces)

(Harris')

(a late 1940s advertisement with an Alice of California add too--I actually have a skirt by them so that was exciting to see as well)

At this point I was understanding that it was probably late 1940s or early 1950s, worn by a college girl on the West Coast. Then I came across this goldmine hit! The exact jacket, advertised in 1953. It says the jacket is:

  "Tailored to a fare-thee-well to be a knockout, styled in Julliard's marvelous all-wool flannel, buttoned with big mother-of-pearl buttons...the casual jacket of the season. Note the double-breasted styling, the hand-picked edges. Fully lined, of course. Better than anything with a pleated skirt...just as good with flared or slim skirts. Perfect with slacks. Sizes 10 to 18. $25.00."

I was so excited to see my exact jacket there on the model and then to have it described. It's a beautiful provenance to have. Knowing myself and being unable to leave good enough alone, I did some more diving into who created this brand. Based off of this article, Oxnard graduates Johnnie and George Murr of San Francisco were selling their ready-to-wear "popular" priced separates and suits for women at the Oxnard department store during the 1940s and 1950s. As you can see, this jacket was offered at Capwell's. Maybe whoever owned this before bought it there! 

(The difficult to read article that explains Gateway Modes)

                                                            (Another advertisement for a suit)

I couldn't find much more information on Gateway Modes or the Murr brothers, but if anyone has any tips or more information let me know. 

Now, what would a college girl in mid-century America have worn? We know that in 1953 that a fitted sweater, plaid skirt, and sport jacket with some pumps would have been an idea look. An a-line skirt or pleated skirt in plaid was at the height of fashion. Bobby socks (white, cuffed socks) and oxfords, penny loafers, or saddle shoes were fashionable too. Short gloves if you were going out and a purse would be a great addition to the look. I think it's safe to say that this covers what would have been "the look" for the late 1940s to early 1950s. 

 Fun fact: My grandma told me that wearing a scarf around your neck was the look. If you were seeing someone, you'd wear a scarf to signify that.

(I can't wait to wear this with some slacks)

                                    (I like a full skirt but would love some pleated ones too)

I hope this was informative or at least enjoyable to read. Let me know what you think in the comments! 

Bekka